Your lawn is the foundation of your yard. Its health heading into winter directly determines its vigor and beauty in the spring. Following this fall lawn care checklist is the most critical step in your entire winterization process.
That spectacular carpet of red and gold leaves covering your lawn may look beautiful, but it's a silent threat to the turf below. A thick, wet mat of leaves effectively suffocates your grass. It blocks the last precious rays of autumn sunlight needed for photosynthesis and traps a layer of moisture against the grass blades. This dark, damp environment is the perfect breeding ground for destructive winter fungal diseases.
The most common culprit in New Hampshire is Snow Mold. It comes in two varieties, gray and pink, and appears in spring as circular patches of matted, dead-looking grass. A severe infection can kill the grass right down to the crown, requiring significant spring repair and reseeding.
Choose Your Weapon: You have several options for leaf removal. Raking is effective for small yards but is incredibly labor-intensive. A powerful leaf blower rental is far more efficient, allowing you to move massive quantities of leaves into piles quickly. For the ultimate in efficiency, many homeowners use a mulching lawn mower to shred the leaves into tiny, nutrient-rich particles that can be left on the lawn. However, if you have a very heavy leaf cover (especially from oak leaves), it’s best to remove them completely.
Tackle the Big Stuff: Winter storms are notorious for bringing down branches. It’s wise to get ahead of the game by clearing any dead or fallen branches from your property now. For anything larger than a few inches in diameter, tackling it with a handsaw is a grueling task. This is where renting a wood chipper becomes a game-changer. In just a few hours, you can turn a massive, unsightly brush pile into a neat mound of valuable, organic wood chips. These chips are a perfect insulating mulch for your garden beds, saving you money and effort.
(Image Suggestion: A clean, leaf-free lawn in autumn. Filename: fall-lawn-cleanup-nh.jpg. Alt-text: A healthy New Hampshire lawn after fall leaf removal and cleanup.)
As the growing season winds down, your mowing strategy should change. The final one or two mows of the year are about preparation, not just tidiness.
Lower the Deck: Gradually lower your mower blade until you’re cutting the grass to a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches. This shorter height does two things: First, it further discourages snow mold, which thrives in long, matted grass. Second, it makes the lawn less hospitable for voles and other rodents that love to create tunnels and nests in tall grass hidden beneath the snow, often chewing the grass down to the soil and causing significant damage.
Warning: Don’t Scalp! Be careful not to go too short. Cutting the grass down to the crown (the whitish part at the base) can damage the plant and hinder its ability to store food for the winter, making it weaker in the spring.
If you only fertilize your lawn once a year, do it in the fall. While spring feeding promotes lush top growth, fall fertilizing is all about building a robust, resilient root system. As the air temperature drops, the grass blades slow their growth, but the roots continue to actively grow and absorb nutrients until the ground freezes solid.
Look for a "winterizer" fertilizer. These formulas are specifically designed with higher concentrations of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Potassium is particularly vital; it acts like a natural antifreeze within the plant cells, improving its cold hardiness and tolerance to freezing temperatures. This single application will be stored in the roots all winter, providing the energy for a powerful and early green-up next spring.
For a complete guide on the fall trifecta of aeration, seeding, and fertilizing, you can explore our in-depth Beginner's Guide to Lawn Rejuvenation.
Your deck and patio are extensions of your home, and they take a brutal beating during a New Hampshire winter. The relentless cycle of precipitation, freezing, and thawing can warp, split, and crack surfaces that aren't properly protected. This section of our winterization checklist covers hardscape protection.
The first step in protecting any surface is to get it impeccably clean. Over the summer, a layer of pollen, dirt, algae, and mildew builds up. These contaminants aren't just ugly; they trap moisture against the surface, which is the primary catalyst for rot in wood and staining on stone.
A pressure washer rental elevates your cleaning to a professional level. The high-pressure stream blasts away ground-in grime that scrubbing can't touch.
Test in an Inconspicuous Area: Always start on a small, hidden spot to ensure you have the right pressure and nozzle.
Use the Right Nozzle: Never use the red, zero-degree nozzle on wood or siding; it will carve into the surface. Use a wider, fan-pattern nozzle (like the green 25-degree or white 40-degree) for most applications.
Keep Your Distance: Hold the nozzle at least 12-18 inches from wood surfaces and sweep in long, even strokes with the grain. Getting too close can cause the wood fibers to fuzz and splinter.
Composite Decking and Pavers: These surfaces can handle slightly more pressure, but a fan tip is still recommended to avoid damaging the surface finish or blasting out the polymeric sand between paver joints.
Once your surfaces are clean and dry, walk every square foot with a critical eye. This is your chance to catch small problems before they become big, expensive ones.
For Decks: Look for popped nails or screws and hammer them down or replace them. Check for any soft, spongy spots, which indicate rot. Firmly grasp railing posts to ensure they are secure and not wobbly.
For Patios: Look for any pavers that have become uneven or cracked. Check the joints between the stones. If the sand has washed out, you may need to sweep in a fresh layer of polymeric sand to lock them in place and prevent winter water intrusion.
This is the most crucial step for any wood deck winterization. Wood is a porous material. When it's dry and properly sealed, water beads up and rolls off. When the sealant has worn away, the wood acts like a sponge, soaking up rain and melting snow.
When that absorbed water freezes, it expands by approximately 9% with immense force. This expansion shatters the cellular structure of the wood from the inside out, leading to the splits, cracks, and checks you see in weathered wood.
Wait for the Right Weather: You need a string of dry days. The deck must be bone dry before you apply sealant, and it needs 24-48 hours to cure without rain.
Choose Your Sealant: A clear sealant offers protection while showcasing the natural wood grain. A toner or semi-transparent stain provides protection plus a hint of color.
Apply a Thin, Even Coat: Use a roller for the main surfaces and a brush for railings and tight corners. Don't let the product puddle. The goal is to have the wood absorb the sealant, not to create a thick film on top. For in-depth technical information on wood preservation, the USDA Forest Products Laboratory offers an excellent guide that is trusted by professionals.
Before we move on, let's address a critical, often-overlooked task: cleaning your gutters. Clogged gutters are the number one cause of ice dams in New Hampshire.
An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof, preventing melting snow from draining off. The water backs up behind the dam, where it can seep under your shingles and leak into your home, causing serious damage to walls, ceilings, and insulation.
By ensuring your gutters are completely clear of leaves and debris in the fall, you allow melting snow and winter rain to flow freely away from your house, drastically reducing the risk of ice dam formation.
(Image Suggestion: A person safely on a ladder cleaning leaves from a gutter. Filename: cleaning-gutters-for-winter-nh.jpg. Alt-text: Homeowner cleaning leaves from gutters to prevent ice dams in New Hampshire.)
Your plants, trees, and shrubs represent a significant investment in time and money. A little garden winterization will ensure they survive the cold and return with vigor.
Once a hard frost has killed off your annuals, pull them out and compost them. If any plants showed signs of disease, throw them in the trash, not the compost pile, to avoid spreading pathogens. Cut back your perennials as they die back, leaving about 4-6 inches of stem.
The most important step is applying a 2-3 inch layer of insulating mulch over the soil. This can be the wood chips you made earlier, shredded leaves, or straw. Mulch doesn't keep the ground warm; it keeps the ground at a stable temperature. This prevents the repeated freeze-thaw cycles that can heave plants and their delicate root systems right out of the soil.
Wrap for Protection: Tall, upright evergreens like arborvitae are prone to damage from heavy snow loads and a phenomenon called "winter burn." Winter burn occurs when the winter sun and wind dry out the needles while the roots are in frozen ground and unable to pull up more water. To prevent both issues, you can wrap them loosely with burlap or use twine to gently tie the branches closer to the main stem.
Guard Young Trees: The bark of young trees is a favorite winter food for rabbits and voles when other food sources are scarce. If they chew the bark all the way around the trunk (a process called girdling), the tree will die. Protect your young trees by installing plastic tree guards around the base of the trunk.
Give Them a Final Drink: Before the ground freezes solid (usually late October or early November in the Lakes Region), give all of your evergreen trees and shrubs a long, deep watering. This helps them stock up on moisture to better endure the dry winter winds. The University of New Hampshire Extension provides fantastic, locally-specific advice for getting your entire garden ready.
The tools and systems that served you all summer need to be properly shut down to prevent costly damage from freezing temperatures and stale fuel.
Modern gasoline starts to degrade after about 30 days, leaving behind gummy varnish deposits that can clog the tiny passages in a carburetor. This is the number one reason a lawn mower won't start in the spring.
Manage the Fuel: You have two professional-approved options. Option A: Add Fuel Stabilizer. Fill the gas tank to about 90% full (a full tank prevents condensation) and add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer. Run the engine for 5-10 minutes to circulate the treated fuel through the entire system. Option B: Run it Dry. Start the engine and let it run until it sputters out of gas completely.
Change the Oil: Combustion byproducts can make engine oil acidic. It’s best to drain the old oil and refill it with fresh oil before storage.
Clean and Inspect: Scrape the caked-on grass from the mower deck. Clean or replace the air filter. Remove the spark plug and pour a small capful of engine oil into the cylinder, then pull the starter cord a few times to coat the cylinder wall and prevent rust. For more detailed instructions, you can consult a trusted source like Briggs & Stratton's official engine storage guide.
A burst pipe is a homeowner's winter nightmare. Water left in hoses, spigots, or irrigation lines will freeze, expand, and rupture whatever is containing it.
Hoses and Sprinklers: Disconnect all garden hoses from the spigots. Walk them out to their full length to drain every last drop of water, then roll them up and store them in a garage or basement.
Exterior Spigots: Even if you have "frost-free" spigots, the hose must be disconnected for them to work properly. Find the interior shut-off valve for each exterior spigot (usually in the basement or a crawl space), and turn it to the "off" position. Then, go outside and open the spigot to let the remaining water drain out completely.
In-Ground Irrigation: These systems must be "blown out" using an air compressor to force all the water out of the lines. Due to the need for a high-volume compressor and the risk of damaging the system, this is one job that is often best left to a professional irrigation specialist in the Tilton or Lakes Region area.
This comprehensive checklist can feel like a monumental task, but you don't have to tackle it with inadequate tools that make the work harder and longer than it needs to be. At NorthPoint Equipment Rentals, we are your local partners in property protection.
From our convenient locations in Tilton and Ashland, we provide the commercial-grade, meticulously maintained equipment that turns a daunting weekend checklist into a satisfying project. Our pressure washer rentals make deck and patio cleaning fast and effective. A wood chipper rental can turn a huge brush pile in your Franklin yard into valuable, insulating mulch for your garden beds in just a few hours.
We're not a faceless national chain; we're your neighbors. We understand the specific challenges that a New Hampshire winter throws at a home because we live it, too. We are here to provide the right tools and expert advice to help you protect your investment.
The proactive work you put in during a few crisp autumn weekends will pay you back all winter long. You'll have the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is protected from the freeze, your tools are ready for spring, and your lawn is storing up the energy for a spectacular return. You're not just doing chores; you're investing in your home's health and your own stress-free spring.
Ready to tackle your NH home winterization checklist? Contact NorthPoint Equipment Rentals today. Our team is ready to help our neighbors from Concord to Meredith get the right tools for the job.